How to stop a dog from lunging at other dogs on-leash?
Lolita Grimes
2025-06-28 05:40:16
Count answers: 10
Stopping a dog from lunging at people is all about making sure the dog feels comfortable and confident. If the dog’s handler manages the situation by helping the dog move away from things before it gets startled or fearful, it is essentially practicing not reacting to strangers. This is a version of something called BAT or Behavior Adjustment Training and its a great way to help a dog who lunges at people. You want to make sure its a wide open place that isnt too busy. Sniffing is a displacement behavior that can calm down many fearful or anxious dogs, so green space is important. Teaching your dog to “find it” is easy to do, simply show your dog a treat and say “find it” as you toss it into the ground right in front of the dog. Once your dog has learned to search for things hearing the “find it” cue, you can preemptively stop your dog from barking or lunging at people by tossing the treats away from whatever it is you know your dog’s going to react to. If you spot a dog offering any of these indicators that they are uncomfortable, immediately play the find it game or call them away from whatever it is they are looking at. If necessary, you can pull them away on the leash, but this should be your last resort. Most dogs bark or lunge at people to get them to move away. Before the lunge, dogs will usually give a number of indicators that they are uncomfortable, freezing, breathing heavily or holding their breath, staring with a closed mouth, going from an open mouth to a closed mouth, burying teeth, growling or trying to move away.
Barbara Gutmann
2025-06-28 03:50:56
Count answers: 9
If your dog is lunging and barking, you should arrange to see your vet as there may be a physical cause for the behaviour. Always consider the emotional state of your canine companion when out and about. He or she can only learn if they are calm and not in a distressed state or jumping around in excitement. If you’re ever concerned, increase the distance between you and the other dog so they’re not distracted. Keep your dog on a lead and walk or train them where others are also on lead and under control. Consider muzzle training your dog, this is essential if he or she has already instigated fights. Don’t test their behaviour, always build for success and stick to the training plan. Take charge but in a gentle way and always be positive. If you don’t see much progression, go back and repeat previous steps in the training for a few more sessions before moving forward again.
Neal Koepp
2025-06-28 03:43:18
Count answers: 9
We have done the look at that consistently for the past 4 months on every single walk. It doesn’t matter, inevitably she will lunge when we get too close to the dog. We try to get her to stop lunging by putting a foot on the leash and letting the other dog walk by. We also turn directions if we are far enough away. We do walk during less busy times, we always put as much space as possible between us. It is at about the 10 foot marker that she will lunge.
Denis Abbott
2025-06-28 00:28:13
Count answers: 9
When our dogs meet on leash, they are typically forced to approach head-on and are often unable to turn their bodies. Their forced body language, and our own, tell our dogs that we want to fight with one another. Most dogs don’t want to fight, so they display a number of behaviors designed to prevent it. These distance-increasing behaviors includes barking, lunging, or growling — anything to make the threat go away. On-leash, both dogs feel trapped, unable to get away from each other. Often, owners have their dogs on tight leashes, thinking this will help if anything happens. Unfortunately, a tight leash tells your dog you're stressed, making your pup more stressed in return. Many people correct their dog for any perceived display of aggression. Some may force them to sit or lie down in an approaching dog’s path thinking this will help correct the behavior.
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